Monday, April 13, 2026

Vienna, Austria III (4/10-12/2026)

Friday, April 10, 2026 (continued)
With Bahnsteigtüren/Platform barrier doors, you
cannot photograph the U-Bahn/subway train
Gebäude der Wiener Secession/Vienna Secession Building
(1898, by Joseph Maria Olbrich in Vienna Secessionist style)
for a group of artists who resigned from the Association
of Austrian Artists that was stuck in traditional artistic styles;
this gave the Vienna Secession artists a place to exhibit
Beethovenfries/Beethoven Frieze (1902, by Gustav Klimt)
begins on one wall with genii (Roman geniuses that are like
guardian angels) floating behind a knight to urge him on a
quest for happiness, a nod to Beethoven's Ninth Symphony
and its inclusion of the poem by Friedrich Schiller on joy
The middle wall shows all the hostile forces against
happiness symbolized by the three Gorgons and their
father, Typhon the giant, while the longings and
wishes of humankind fly overhead (KSS)
Poetry can lead us to happiness, and at the end a chorus
sings Ode to Joy; because the frieze was not meant to be
permanent, an art collector carefully removed the walls in
seven pieces; the frieze was one of the art works recovered
in 1945 from the Altaussee salt mine where it was hidden
by the Nazis; it has been returned to the Secession Building,
but in a special climate-controlled room in the basement
Because in 2015 Vienna's city government
was a coalition of the Social Democrats
and Green Party, it was decided to have
diversity-themed pedestrian traffic lights
showing heterosexual and same-sex couples
Originally meant to be temporary, overwhelming
public support has made them permanent
We had tickets for the 15:00  tour at the Burgtheater, so had to skip seeing Klimt at the Wien/Vienna Museum.
Burgtheater/Imperial Court Theater (1888, by
Gottfried Semper and Karl Freiherr von Hasenauer in
Neo-Baroque and Neo-Renaissance styles)
The theater is known for frescoes painted
by Gustav Klimt, as well as his brother Ernst
and Franz Matsch, located over the grand
staircase; we did not realize that there are two
grand staircases and one is being renovated
Top of the grand staircase on the south
Volksgarten side of the theater
Scene from Molière (1886-1887, by Ernst Klimt)
Ceiling frescoes
Shakespeare's Globe Theatre (1886-1887, by Gustav Klimt)
depicts a scene from Romeo & Juliet, and Gustav painted
himself, his brother Ernst, and fellow painter Franz Matsch
in the audience to the right under the balcony
Ancient Theatre Scene (1886-1888, by Franz Matsch)
Upside down is The Cart of Thespis (1886-1888, by
Gustav Klimt) and right side up in the tympanum is
Altar of Dionysos (1886, by Gustav Klimt)
Looking down from the top of the staircase
Bust (c 1875, by Victor Tilgner) of Charlotte
Wolter, the star actress of Burgtheater (KSS) 
Upper Hallway used during intermissions
Ash trays are no longer used!
Costume worn by Charlotte Wolter
Original design sketches by Gustav Klimt were found in the
theater attic in 1990 and are now displayed in the Angelika
Prokopp Foyer; here Gustav portrayed Ernst Klimt in a ruff
and Franz Matsch with a hat, while he stands behind them
Gustav Klimt self-portrait sketch
In the Romeo and Juliet scene, Gustav used
his younger brother, Georg, as a model
Across the street from Burgtheater is Das Wiener Rathaus/
Vienna City Hall (1872-1883, by Friedrich von Schmidt
in Neo-Gothic style), which we had seen in 2009
This couple kept taking each other's photo at #wienliebe/
Vienna love, so we gave up waiting for our turn
Alt Wiener Erdäpfelsuppe/Vienna potato soup
with root vegetables and bacon
Wiener Schnitzel/Vienna breaded veal cutlet
with warm potato salad and cranberry sauce

Saturday, April 11, 2026
Now we were both ill and coughing, so when I was ready to try exploring after lunch, Kent was not. It was still miserable outside, so we hunkered down to prepare for flying home tomorrow.

Sunday, April 12, 2026
At least we did not have to leave early, but we did leave earlier than Viking had scheduled us (at 12:20 for a 13:20 flight!). A one-and-a-half hour flight to Frankfurt, where fortunately we had more than a two-hour layover, because most of it taken by waiting in line at border control for them to take photos and get our fingerprints. Left Frankfurt about 17:00 for the eight-and-a-half hour flight to Toronto. There we had an hour delay, finally departing from Toronto at 22:20 for the hour-an-a-half flight to Philadelphia.

Monday, April 13, 2026
A short wait for our ride, and we were home by 1:30.

Friday, April 10, 2026

Vienna, Austria II (4/10/2026)

Friday, April 10, 2026 (continued)
After the Art History Museum, we walked across the street
to the MuseumsQuartier (1719-1725, by Johann Bernhard
Fischer von Erlach in Baroque style as the Imperial
Court Stables); additional buildings have been added...
...such as the Museum moderner Kunste/Museum of Modern Art
(2001, by Ortner & Ortner), which is clad in basalt (KSS)
Iconic MQ seating in the MuseumsQuartier are made
from recycled materials and apparently the public
can vote on the color they are repainted each year (KSS)
Our destination was the Leopold Museum (1998-2001,
by brothers Laurids and Manfred Ortner in Contemporary
Modernist style), which holds the Austrian modern
art collection of ophthalmologist Rudolf Leopold
Working drawing (1905, by Koloman Moser)
of a stained glass window for the
Church am Steinhof in Vienna (KSS)
Regentag/Rainy Day (1914, by
Koloman Moser) (KSS)
Pieces from the Series B and the Black Bronzite
Variation F
Drinking Set (c 1911, by Josef Hoffmann)
Wine Glasses (1908, by Otto Prutscher)
Leather Jewelry Box (c 1906, by Josef Hoffmann)
Pendulum Clock (1904, by Josef Hoffman) (KSS)
Der schwarze Stier/The Black Bull
(1900, by Gustav Klimt)
Die große Pappel II/The Great Poplar II
(1902-1903, by Gustav Klimt)
Tot und Leben/Death & Life (1908-1915, by Gustav Klimt)
Dame mit Cape und Hut vor rotem
Hintergrund
/Lady with Cape and Hat in Front of
Red Background (1897-1898, by Gustav Klimt)
Am Attersee/On Lake Atter (1900,
by Gustav Klimt) (KSS)
Schönbrunner Landschaft/Schönbrunn Landscape
(1916, by Gustav Klimt)
Klimt Studio Antechamber with furnishings
designed by Josef Hoffmann (KSS)
Ein Morgen am Teiche/A Morning by the Pond
(1899, by Gustav Klimt)
Obstgarten/Orchard (c 1898, by Gustav Klimt)
Obstgarten am Abend/Orchard in the
Evening (1898, by Gustav Klimt)
Tafelfreuden (Studie für das Stadttheater in Karlsbad)/
Table Delights (Study for the City Theater in Karlsbad)
(1886, by Gustav Klimt)
Stilisierte Blumen vor decorativem
Hintergrund
/Stylized Flowers in Front of
Decorative Background (1908, by
Egon Schiele); Leopold Museum houses
the largest Schiele collection in the world
Capriccio se zlaceným vějířem/Capriccio with
Gilded Fan (c 1907, by Czech Emil Orlik) (KSS)
Wiener Secession (Architekturmodell)/Vienna Secession
(Architecture Model) (1970, by Rudolf Peter Hauptmann)
Painting of Mädchen mit Halskette/Girl with
Necklace (c 1910); pair of Armchairs (1903) and
Sliding Table (1903), by Koloman Moser (KSS)
Inlaid Wardrobe (1903, by Koloman Moser)
Bedroom of the Daughter of the Textile Industrialist
Max Biach (1902, by Josef Hoffmann) (KSS)
A Fan-back Chair (c 1910/1920, by Adolf Loos)
Tre Croci - Dolomitenlandschaft/Tre Croci - Dolomite
Landscape (1913, by Oskar Kokoschka) (KSS)
Die Baumwollpflückerin (Plakat zur
Kunstschau, Wien/The Cotton Picker
(Poster for Art Exhibition in Vienna)
Selbstbildnis mit hochgezogener nackter
Schulter
/Self-portrait with Raised Bare Shoulder
(1912, by Egon Schiele)
Kleiner Baum im Spätherbst/Small Tree in
Late Autumn (1911, by Egon Schiele) (KSS)
Bildnis Wally Neuzil/Portrait of Wally Neuzil
(1912, by Egon Schiel)
Selbstbildnis mit Lampionfrüchten/Self-portrait
with Chinese Lantern Plant (1912, by Egon Schiele) )KSS)

Next: Still more Vienna.