Wednesday, March 25, 2026

Peleș Castle, Transylvania, Romania (3/23-25/2026)

Monday, March 23, 2026
First thing in the morning was the news of the horrific crash of an Air Canada plane at LaGuardia Airport in New York City the night before. Our own Air Canada flight at 15:30 was still on schedule. Another check at 10:00 showed our flight was cancelled, but we had received no notification. A call to the Viking Air emergency number indicated we were rebooked on British Airways, leaving at 19:35 for London Heathrow, rather than the original flight plan to Montreal, then Frankfurt to Bucharest.

Tuesday, March 24, 2026
Arrived in Bucharest, Romania at 15:30, and Viking transferred us to the JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel, a 5-star hotel. Although we have been here before (Passage to Eastern Europe), we did not realize that this hotel was built later during the rule of Nicolae Ceaușescu for overflow administration and to house VIP guests. It was not completed when sold to JW Marriott, and it opened in 2000 as a hotel.
JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel room
JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel room
JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel bathroom
JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel lavatory
Being on a Viking extension to Transylvania, dinner was
on our own; Kent ordering at the kiosk at Chicken Staff
We split a chicken breast meal; it was very unusual to meet
another Viking couple, Paul & Cynthy, who were also
dining where the locals eat (including a Viking rep)

Wednesday, March 25, 2026
We boarded a motor coach to head up into the mountains of Transylvania.
An example of "Paris-style" housing in Bucharest
An example of fancy Communist-style housing in Bucharest
Two hours later we arrived at Peleș Castle in the town of Sinaia
Peleș Castle (1873-1914, by Johannes Schultz,
then Karel Liman in Neo-Renaissance and
Gothic Revival style  as the royal hunting preserve
and summer retreat of the first king of Romania)
Holul de Onoare/Hall of Honor with busts of
King Karl I and his Queen Elisabeta; they
had one daughter, Princess Mărioara,
who died before age four with scarlet fever
Ceiling of the Hall of Honor is retractable (KSS)
Detail of woodwork in the Hall of Honor (KSS)
Picking Fruit (18C French tapestry)
Carved wooden spiral staircase (1610, by
25-year old Romanian Gorgesanesco, who
may have carved himself holding up the stairs);
there is also supposed to be a bust of Karel Liman
One of several inlaid-wood depictions of German and Swiss
castles that belonged to the king's Hohenzollern family
Sala Mare de Arme/The Grand Armory (KSS)
A complete set of German armor (weighing 120 kilos/
265 pounds) for a horse and rider 
A replica of the Romanian crown, which was made of
steel from an Ottoman cannon captured during the Romanian
War of Independence in 1878, and is a symbol of
 independence from the Ottoman Empire
Stained glass in a door
Apartamentul Imperial/The Imperial Suite
with tooled leather walls
King Karl I liked to use the standing desk
on the left to insure that audiences with
constituents lasted only 15 minutes or so;
more important guests would be seated
in the nook beyond the desk
Because the castle had a forced hot-air heating
system, all the fireplaces were decorative:
Kingdom of Romania Coat of Arms with the
motto Nihil Sine Deo/Nothing without God
Biblioteca Regală/Royal Library with a secret
doorway (second bookcase from the right)
to the king's apartments
Sala de Muzică/Music Room features a Bechstein piano
and Raffaello harp as well as intricately carved teak
furniture gifted by the Maharajah of Kapurthala 
Paintings by Dora Hitz depict scenes from the writings
of Carmen Sylva, the pen name of Queen Elisabeta;
Dora Hitz was the first court painter of Romania under
Queen Elisabeta and was a contemporary of Gustav Klimt,
although she was associated with the Berlin Secession
The Music Room stained glass windows
depict scenes from Romanian fairy
tales by Vasile Alecsandri 
Sala Florentină/The Florentine Room with a
chandelier of Murano glass
The large mirror is also of Murano glass
and the angle of the photo is such to show
the ceiling painting of the muse Calliope
(after Giorgio Vasari, c 1555-1558 original
in Palazzo Vecchio in Florence, Italy)
The Education of the Virgin Mary
(after Peter Paul Rubens, c 1625-1626
original in the Royal Museum of
Fine Arts Antwerp); I missed the
painting by JM Keuttel, who was armless
Sala de Mese/Dining Room (KSS)
Salonul Maur/Moorish Salon was inspired by the Alhambra
and incorporates Spanish and North African Moorish designs;
at the far end is a fountain made from Carrara marble
Salonul Turcesc/Turkish Salon is decorated
with silk embroidered with gold
Vent for the forced hot-air heating;
the castle also has a central vacuum, an
elevator, and its own power plant (KSS)
A statue (c 1912, by Rottermun of
Germany) of King Karl I in the uniform
of a cavalry general; because he had no heir
the second king of Romania was his
nephew Ferdinand; Karl himself was chosen
by the nobles of Romania to become king
and he signed the new constitution
creating a constitutional monarchy
Next: Sinaia.

Saturday, October 4, 2025

Te Anau, NZ and Milford Sound (9/30/2025)

Tuesday, September 30, 2025
This morning we took a taxi to the Queenstown Airport to rent a car. We left at 9:30 to drive 165 km/103 miles to Te Anau in the foothills of New Zealand's Southern Alps. We arrived at noon, in time to rescue our room reservation since credit card payment was denied. We had booked hotels in February, using our old credit card number, and the hotel waited until yesterday to charge us.
We had a room at Lakewood Lofts, but shared reception
with the Te Anau Lakefront Backpackers' Hostel
Lakewood Lofts bathroom
Lake Te Anau was across the street
We first went to cancel our excursion to the Te Anau Glowworm Caves, which would be too difficult for me to negotiate with crutches. Our only consolation was that we had already seen glowworms!
Lunch at Lakefront Café, sharing a bacon and egg butty
(a butty is a sandwich)...

...and a seafood chowder with garlic bread

Wednesday, October 1, 2025
After rain yesterday, we were lucky to have a beautiful
sunny day with snow-covered mountains seen behind
Lake Te Anau, New Zealand's second largest lake
More snow-covered mountains
We drove and parked at Kiwi Country Café to wait for the motor coach for the Milford Sound Full-Day Tour from Te Anau. What we did not realize was that the tour actually started in Queenstown, and most of the passengers had already traveled 2.5 hours! They had a rest stop, and then ten more of us boarded the bus. Because I was on crutches, we were given the front seat!
Heading to the Southern Alps and Milford Sound (KSS)
Notice the plush bird on the dashboard, a
Strigops habroptilus/Kākāpō/Owl Parrot,
which is an endangered large flightless parrot
Our first stop was the glacial moraine... (KSS)
...well, a glacier carved this valley and nature has taken over;
but most people took advantage of getting off the bus (KSS)
This was our completely full motor coach; we also learned
how lucky we were in that this tour occurred today,
since it had been cancelled the last two days due to
avalanches closing the road and all tours were cancelled;
thus most of the people were rebooked for today
Trees have a tenuous hold on the mountains
and you often see bare patches where a group
of trees have lost their hold and slid down (KSS)
Our second stop was at Mirror Lake, a short walk
on a boardwalk of which Kent took advantage (KSS)
Mirror Lake (KSS)
Lichen and mosses
Bird nest (KSS)
There is a waterfall next to the "landslide" (KSS)
Waterfall (KSS)
The road follows the Eglinton River
A permanent waterfall (versus waterfalls
that are created by snow melt and/or rain) (KSS)
Nestor notabilis/Kea/Alpine Parrot is said to
have the intelligence of a four-year old, or a
seven-year old Australian...
A third stop at Monkey Creek, with fresh cold water
from the mountains, and we were encouraged to
fill our water bottles (KSS)
So many tourists, including busloads of Chinese (KSS)
Do not feed the kea! (KSS)
Canoodling kea (KSS)
We were to thank the Milford Road maintenance crew
for clearing the roads after the avalanches (KSS)
A massive snow bowl; if it were raining,
there would be waterfalls everywhere (KSS)
Entering Homer Tunnel (1935-1954)
The tunnel is 1.27 km/0.8 of a mile long
Traffic lights are needed to control the one-way flow
There were avalanche signs in several areas (KSS)
We are in the Southern Alps with hanging glaciers,
and it is sunny on his side, too!
Milford Sound tour boat
As seen in the boat photo, Mitre Peak (named due to
its resemblance to a bishop's hat) is the most significant
mountain on Milford Sound at 2,621 m/8,599'
Although there was a buffet on the ship,
our tour included a picnic lunch
There are several waterfalls; note
the size of the boat below the falls (KSS)
Milford Sound is a fiord, and we are
in Fiordland National Park (KSS)
Snow-covered mountains (KSS)
Pixie and Fairy Falls (KSS)
A hostess came around to take our photo
The sound ends (or begins?) at the Tasman Sea (KSS)
At a wider spot we can see the snow-covered mountains (KSS)
Heading back through the narrowest point
that is 560 m/1,837' wide (KSS)
Arctocephalus forsteri/Kekeno/New Zealand Fur Seal;
we also saw the Eudyptes pachyrhynchus/
Tawaki/Fiordland crested penguin (KSS)
Bowen Falls is a permanent waterfall and the
tallest in Milford Sound at 162 m/531' (KSS)
The pointed peak is Mitre Peak
And so the two-hour cruise came to an end, and
we had a two-hour drive back to Te Anau (no stops) (KSS)

Thursday, October 2, 2025
Today we departed at 7:15 to drive back to the Queenstown Airport and dropped off the rental car. We had a 13:05 flight back to Christchurch, then a 17:05 flight to Sydney, Australia, which took three hours and 40 minutes. Because of the two-hour time difference, we should have arrived in Sydney at 16:45, but the flight was delayed an hour. Colin was there to pick us up at the airport and I was taken in a wheelchair right to the car. Thanks to Sharon, we had a scrumptious dinner of Moroccan stew with quinoa and green beans.

Friday, October 3, 2025
Today's activity was to go to the emergency room at the closest hospital, where I had x-rays and lab work, but most importantly, I received a prescription for pain medication, to ease the 14-hour flight across the Pacific Ocean. Kent had to use Colin's phone to contact Delta Airlines, and we were able to change our departure to tomorrow, four days ahead of schedule. It means we will miss going to Canberra, the capital of Australia.

Saturday, October 4, 2025
Colin and Sharon had us eat breakfast, then drove us to the Sydney Airport for our 9:25 flight to Los Angeles, arriving at 6:15 (but it is still October 4th!). At 8:35 we had a four-hour 20-minute flight to Atlanta, arriving at 15:58. Finally the two-hour flight to Philadelphia departed at 17:55, arriving at 19:53. Brynne picked us up, and we were home by 21:00. A total of 25 hours in transit.

In many ways this was the best of trips, and it was also the worst of trips!

NB: I had a left total hip replacement surgery on 11/18/2025.